Kriol

"Orait, longtaim bifo enijing bin jidan, det Wed bin jidan, en det Wed bin jidan garram God, en det Wed na im God. Wal brom longtaim det Wed bin jidan garram God, God bin meigim ebrijing garram det Wed. Im nomo bin meigim enijing nomo garram det Wed, det Wed na bin abum det pawa blanga gibitbat laif, en det laif na bin det lait blanga ebribodi, det lait oldei shain langa det dakbala, en det dakbala kaan neba audim det lait."

--- John 1:1-5

This well-known scriptural passage is rendered here in Kriol, an English-based creole language spoken by many Australian Aboriginal peoples in the Northern Territory. Creole languages are fascinating to me because they rely so much on actually speaking the words, as the language being creolized is often not a written one. In the first sentence we read "longtaim bifo enijing bin jidan" which looks pretty foreign until you speak it aloud and realize it's "longtime before anything [was made?]". It's not exactly "in the beginning" but you get the drift. I once saw some Haitian Creole (which is based on French) written someplace. It was amusing to me because the French-derived words were actually written like they are pronounced (ça as sa, qui as ki, dite as di, etc.). I didn't understand what I was reading until I tried reading it aloud to myself.   

ANZAC Day

On April 25, 1915, Allied forces landed on the Gallipoli peninsula during an assault on the Ottoman Empire. Both the Turks and the Allies sustained heavy losses, though the Turks were eventually victorious, laying waste to the Allied strategy of quickly overthrowing the Ottoman Empire. The armed forces of Australia and New Zealand (referred to as the ANZACs), fighting with their British brethren, sustained very heavy casualties in the midst of the fighting. The Gallipoli campaign was a defining moment for the young nations, and one that lead to an increased sense of self-direction at the conclusion of the war. Prior to WWI, Australia and New Zealand (and Canada) were still very important parts of the British Empire. The ANZACs answered the call "to defend King and country", though the King and the country were both 11,000 miles away. Thus, seeing all of the sons of Australia and New Zealand being slaughtered by the Turks in a war that had little to do with Australia or New Zealand, shaped public opinion in those countries for years to come.

The commemoration of ANZAC Day is far more somber than our equivalent Veteran's Day, which tends to take on a bit more nationalistic fervor. Since ANZAC Day recalls a defeat - and a gruesome defeat at that - the national observance tends toward more solemnity and reflection on the terrible fruits of war. The song "And the Band Played Waltzing Matilda," written by Eric Bogle in 1971, captures well the mood of ANZAC Day and the events it remembers. Here is a version of the song performed by The Dubliners:

 

Australian Skies

Australia has some of the most amazing skies in the whole world. I'm not sure if it's just the proximity of the ocean that makes the atmosphere delightful, but my semester in Lennox Head was graced by many fine skies both day and night. I came up with this photo today, which is an amalgamation of five separate photos of Lennox Head and Seven Mile Beach. From left to right we progress from dawn, to sunrise, to midday, to sunset, and finally to an evening thunderstorm.

Wandering Fremantle

If you begin in Perth, the capital and largest city of the remote state of Western Australia, and head southwest by automobile or train, you will end up in the agreeable town of Fremantle. Positioned at the mouth of the Swan River, Fremantle reached its zenith in the gold rush days of the late Nineteenth Century, when it was the preeminent port city of Western Australia. Nowadays, it is a haven for wealthy Perthites looking to move closer to the beach as well as a younger, backpacking clientele from around the world looking for a sunny holiday location. Fremantle is among my very favorite places in Australia. Through the wonder of Google Maps and my own photography, we are able to stroll through Fremantle and enjoy this gem of the West.

We'll begin at Number 23, Swanbourne Street, our residence during our time in Fremantle. It sits on the heights to the east of the city, and had wonderful sunset views out over the Indian Ocean from the back porch.

Walk about twenty-five yards down Swanbourne Street, hang a left on Fothergill Street, and this is the view that greets you. It is a quiet, leafy residential neighborhood. Gardens full of fragrant flowers and trees spill over brick walls onto the sidewalks. The view of the azure Indian Ocean perfectly completes the horizon.

After a bit of maneuvering at the bottom of Fothergill Street, you will find yourself at the main square, dominated by the splendid Victorian era City Hall.

On the other side of the square is St. John's Anglican Church. It is a sturdy Gothic Revival structure with a nice cool interior.

Heading southwest from the town square down High Street, you will notice a bustling streetscape dominated by some fantastically preserved buildings from two centuries ago. High Street terminates at the old jail - the oldest structure extant in Fremantle.

The built heritage of Fremantle is nothing to scoff at. The streets are a pleasure to wander down. It rather reminds me of Charleston, for those who are familiar.

High Street ends at a tunnel underneath the Old Jail that leads to the beach.

Nearby is the old Technical College - a handsome Gothic building exhibiting the red and cream color scheme common to Western Australia.

The local Uniting Church is another example of colonial Gothic. I rather like the way this church sits on the corner in a picturesque way.

These rowhouses along a side street exhibit several means of shading. The sun is extreme everywhere in Australia, but since Western Australia enjoys a drier climate, it is much more severe.

When your day in Fremantle is done, return to Number 23, Swanbourne Street, and enjoy dinner on the verandah as the sun sets. 

The Australian Pub

Australians do, in general, enjoy their beer, and the cultural institution of the pub is perhaps one of the nation's most important. Architecturally, Australian pubs share many characteristics in common with each other - more so than bars in the United States, for example. They are often simple but dignified buildings with nice shady verandahs and hotel rooms upstairs. Here are a few I encountered throughout my travels in Australia:

A nice two-story pub in Fremantle, Western Australia

Newport Hotel, Fremantle, Western Australia

Great Northern Hotel - just up the road from Lennox Head in Byron Bay, New South Wales

Telegraph Hotel - a splendid Art Deco pub in Hobart, Tasmania

Imperial Hotel, Murwillumbah, New South Wales

Oxford Hotel, Inverell, New South Wales

The Bells Hotel in Sydney's Woolloomooloo neighborhood (I doubt there's any Bell's on tap, sadly)

The aptly-named Australian Hotel in The Rocks area of central Sydney

The Empire Hotel, Inverell, New South Wales (For sale!)

Though the picture says otherwise, this is now the Mosman Hotel in the Sydney suburb of Mosman

This building in Tenterfield, New South Wales, began its life as a pub, but is now sadly and inexplicably an accountant's office

Pugin in Tasmania

Augustus Welby Northmore Pugin was the premier Gothic Revivalist. Active throughout the latter half of the Nineteenth Century, primarily in Britain, Pugin breathed new life into ancient Gothic forms with great zeal. Though recognized first and foremost for his works throughout the British Isles, Pugin deserves some recognition for his small churches Down Under. St. Patrick's in Colebrook and St. John's in Richmond are two Tasmanian Catholic churches designed by A.W.N. Pugin, and they are quite refined in my estimation, despite their intimate scale.

St Patrick's, Colebrook, TAS

St. John's, Richmond, TAS

Bangalow

If one heads south from Brisbane along the Pacific Highway and exits just over the border of New South Wales, one would find oneself in the small town of Bangalow, perhaps the most charming village in the entire Commonwealth of Australia. Once a regional centre of some importance, Bangalow, like many small towns, has faded from its former days of influence only to be resuscitated by the influx of money from Sydney millionaires looking for a hinterland escape. Mercifully, Bangalow's impressive collection of turn-of-the-century Australian vernacular buildings has survived.

Heading in to town from the east, we happen first upon All Souls Anglican Church, a fairly handsome example of Australia's peculiar version of carpenter Gothic.

We then proceed through a brief residential neighborhood ornamented with such fine residences as this one. Federation style bungalows predominate with their ornate woodwork, window canopies, and quintessential front porches. The main portion of town comes next:

Each storefront boasts a one or two storey verandah, a necessary feature in a climate as sunny and as rainy as that of the northern reaches of New South Wales.

And what tour through an Australian country town would be complete without a stop at the pub (or hotel, as they are euphemistically known). The Bangalow Hotel is a typical example of the Australian pub with its tiled exterior walls and its overhanging verandah canopy.

I was able to spend a single lovely Sunday in Bangalow last winter, and really, that is all that the small town demands. Worth a stop if you're in the area: yes.

Some Travel Posters

Yesterday, I was seized with an art attack and, in the productive fury that followed, I produced two 15x20 paintings of which I am rather proud. They are the first in an eventual series of paintings of Australia that hearken back to old travel posters (and postcards) of the early 20th Century.

This first painting is of the town of Byron Bay and its lighthouse. Byron was only fifteen minutes up the road by bus from Lennox Head, so I visited rather frequently. It has an absolutely beautiful beach with some fine hiking trails up the the lighthouse and the point pictured at the bottom left. Incidentally, that point is the most easterly spot on the Australian continent. In the bay are the Julian Rocks, pictured at the left of the lighthouse. This was a popular SCUBA and snorkel location for many of our Australian group. 

Artistically, I am pleased with how this one turned out. The red lettering is probably something I won't ever do again as it was a very tedious task to keep the hue vibrant (since this is all watercolor). However, I am particularly happy with the water. The shading of the waves is convincing. 

The second poster is shown above. This image takes the form of an imagined advertisement for the devilishly-delicious banana pancakes found at the cafe of the Lennox Head Surf Lifesaving Club. The pancakes, topped with ice cream, bananas, and syrup, are shown in the foreground. A hint of sunrise and the 'head' of Lennox fill out the background. I was a little leery of the color palette on this one, but I think it turned out decently. Though it is not realistic at all, I do like how the water turned out, with the hint of pink near the horizon. This one might get taken in to Photoshop and touched up a bit, particularly the lettering on the bottom. 

The series will continue with a painting of King's Park in Perth and the Great Ocean Road. I should have a customized set of painted memories pretty soon here if I keep my brushes busy

Three Tasmanian Panoramas

One of my favorite places I was privileged to enjoy during my time in Australia was the island state of Tasmania. It has a feel distinct from the mainland and is extraordinarily beautiful. Below are three panoramas that I've put together of a few places we traveled to in Tasmania.

This first photo is taken from the summit of Mt Amos, a peak on the Freycinet Peninsula on Tasmania's east coast. It was a lengthy, difficult hike to the top, but, as you can see, the views were worth it. The beach at center is Wineglass Bay, which has been ranked one of the most beautiful beaches in the world.

Second, we have a view of the Freycinet Peninsula with the Hazard mountain range from sea level. This particular vantage point was a rocky outcropping on Coles Bay, to the west of the national park entrance. As the sun set over the bay, the mountains glowed orange and red. Mt Amos is the second summit from the left.

Lastly, we come to the capital of the island, Hobart. As Hobart has the distinction of being Australia's second-oldest city, historical charm was certainly not in short supply. It is a small city, but it is enviably situated on the fjord-like Derwent River at the base of the imposing Mt Wellington. Neoclassical buildings, such as those showcased above, add another level of visual interest to the cityscape.

Tasmania was one of the most beguiling destinations I've ever traveled to, and I would jump at any chance to go back. The architectural heritage, the history, and the natural beauty of the island state add up to a place without equal.

The Churches of Australia

Australia is not often thought of first in the field of great church architecture, with deference usually being paid to the great built heritage of Europe, but this does not mean that Australia's Christian patrimony should not go unnoticed. Throughout my travels on that continent down under, I discovered many gems in the field of sacred architecture. The Australian Gold Rush and Australia's coming of age as a mature colonial force coincided with the Gothic Revival movement (so eloquently and forcefully espoused by Britain's A.W.N. Pugin). This penchant for Gothicism was exported from Britain to Australia and drove the sensibilities of church architecture for many years. Enjoy these photos of mine from around Australia:

St. Mary's, Casino, New South Wales (Catholic)

Our Lady of Perpetual Succour, Tenterfield, New South Wales (Catholic)

Cathedral of Our Lady Help of Christians, Sydney, New South Wales (Catholic)

Cathedral of St. Patrick, Melbourne, Victoria (Catholic)

Cathedral of St. Paul, Melbourne, Victoria (Anglican)

Cathedral of St. David, Hobart, Tasmania (Anglican)

Australia

Well, kind readers, be advised that from tomorrow until April 30th I shall be enjoying the delights and charms of the Antipodes. I shall be resident in Lennox Head, Australia, for the majority of the time, followed by a brief stint in New Zealand. During this exciting time, I will continue to blog, albeit not at this address. To keep up with my adventures, do head over to my Australia-specific blog at the address below:

http://mattschmalzel.tumblr.com


Cheers one and all! Keep the light on for me!

In 80 days...

I will be in Lennox Head, Australia. This weekend there is a big meeting where we will learn the in-depth information about studying in Australia. Classes, roommates, and sundry other things will be decided upon. Also, it will be the first time where everyone who's going will be in the same room. It will be nice to at least get acquainted with faces, if not personalities.

Soon...

The Daily Niblet: Fitzroy Island

Pictured is Fitzroy Island, Australia. It is a small barrier island off the coast of Cairns, Queensland. After seeing this photo and others of the island, I will endeavor to make this place figure prominently on my Australia 2012 itinerary.

Australia, Spring 2012

Lennox Head, New South Wales, with the BSU Australia Center in the foreground

So, remember when I wrote a big long post about how I was so excited about going to Graz, Austria next spring? Well, scrap that.

Turns out enrolling in a foreign university whose language is German is a bit more logistically difficult than your idealistic scribe thought. So, for a variety of reasons, Graz has been thrown out the window. Enter Oz. The Ball State Australia Center is essentially an extension of Ball State located in Lennox Head, New South Wales. The Australia Center is run by a single Ball State faculty member (in this case, an architecture professor), assisted by four Australian faculty from the University of Southern Cross. The nicest logistical thing is that credits, financial aid, and classes will all be Ball State pre-approved.

Of course, the most alluring thing about the Australia Center is its location. The Center is based in a recreation complex in Lennox Head, a small town approximately two hours south of Brisbane and seven hours north of Sydney. Oh, and it's on the beach. The small cabins that students are housed in are literally steps from one of the best beaches in Australia. So, living in the sun for three months is certainly appealing. Also on the complex are a lake with free kayaks, an academic area, and gym.

The surrounding countryside around Lennox Head is composed of subtropical rolling hills in the interior and alternating stretches of cliff and sand along the Pacific Coast. Brisbane, the capital of the adjacent state of Queensland, is two hours north. Between Lennox and Brisbane are several national parks encompassing the stunning scenery of the impressive Blue Mountains.

Built into the program will be field trips to various sites throughout Australia. The Great Barrier Reef, Sydney, Melbourne and Canberra are among the places on the itinerary. In addition, the four day academic week encourages exploration throughout the greater Lennox Head area. A one week spring break begs to be spent in New Zealand.

I am understandably thrilled about this opportunity for its cost, ease, and the amazing sights and landscapes to be found Down Under. I'll be keeping you posted!